Author(s): Ben Marcus

Sport general

Every sport has a culture, but surfing along has created a style, even a philosophy, of life. In this book, wit, wisdom and living for a wave come together to point the way to the ride of your life. From Captain James Cook, Mark twain, jack London, to today's champions Kelley Slater and Laird Hamilton, the words and photographs in this book capture the meaning of life as only a surfer can experience it!